Pretty much the only liver dish I can make myself eat is paté. But, I absolutely love pate. I like every kind of paté I’ve run into: rustic, chunky Pâté de Campagne, smooth creamy paté, chicken, duck, pork, .. I like it all. One of my favorites, though, is this recipe, which is adapted from Chef Omri Aflalo at Bourbon Steak.
This recipe is pretty involved, taking a total of three days to make.
The first step is to soak the liver in milk, over night.
Drain the liver and rinse off the milk. In order to preserve the pink color, we need to add curing salt, sodium nitrite, and let the liver cure for 24 hours. My curing salt mix, based on Omri’s recipe, is salt, sugar, black pepper, and curing salt. A mere 22g of curing salt is enough for one kilogram of liver.
Notice the color difference after the liver is cured.
Then we cryovac the liver, and cook it sous vide.
The liver is cooked sous vide at 72C for one hour. Meanwhile, I prepared the rest: a quick saute of shallots with butter and Armenian brandy.
Then it’s time to make the topping. I happened to have a jar of homemade “bruiseberry” jam that a friend had given me. Bruiseberry, of course, is blackberry and blueberry, two of my favorite things about the Pacific Northwest. The jam was a bit rustic, with the blackberry seeds still in it, so I warmed it up and strained it through a chinois.
Here’s the liver after it came out of the sous vide. It’s still a little pink, not as much as I’d hoped but not as bad as when I’ve omitted the curing step.
After that it’s just assembly: blend the liver, shallots, and butter until smooth, add a touch of
gelatin, spoon into jars, and top with the jelly.
Pork Liver Mouse
1 kg pork liver
22g curing salt mix (see below)
2 Tbls brandy
1 stick butter plus a bit more for the shallots
1/2 one packet powdered gelatin, reconstituted in 1/4C water.
Soak liver in milk overnight. Drain, combine with curing salt, and refrigerate for 24 hours.
Cook liver sous vide at 72C for one hour. Sweat shallots in butter, add brandy and flambe.
Combine cooked liver, shallots, butter, and gelatin in a blender or food processor and process
until smooth. You may need to add a bit more water. Spoon into jars and cover with a thin layer of jelly.
Curing Salt Mix
12g curing salt #2 (aka “pink salt”)
12g black pepper